Khögnö Khan & Elsen Tasarkhai

Khögnö Khan is a granite massif rising above the steppe on the borders of Bulgan, Övörkhangai and Töv. At its southern foot runs Elsen Tasarkhai, a strip of sand dunes about 80 km long, which travellers often call the 'Mini Gobi'. On the slopes stand the ruins of Övgön monastery. It is one of the easiest places to see mountain, steppe and sand in a single stop.

Granite, forest and sand

The area was protected as a nature reserve in 1997 and became a national park in 2003. Its granite peaks are weathered into boulders and rounded towers, and the shaded valleys hold stands of birch, poplar and conifers, with natural springs. The small Tarna river supplies water to herders and wildlife. South of the mountain, the dunes of Elsen Tasarkhai form a narrow band of sand with grassland on either side, grazed by sheep, goats, horses and Bactrian camels. The park's plants and animals are a mix of steppe and northern forest species.

Walking and riding

A walk from Erdene Khamba monastery along a birch-lined path to the ruins of Övgön gives wide views over the steppe. Longer hikes climb among the granite outcrops; trails are informal, so take care on loose rock. A short drive leads to the dunes, where a camel or horse ride of an hour or two is the usual activity. One night is enough for a hike, a ride and a sunset over the sand.

Best time and respect

June to September is the main season, when days are warm and the steppe is green, although July and August bring most of the year's rain. Livestock and vehicles are causing soil erosion, so drive only on existing tracks. Treat the monastery ruins as a religious site and do not move stones.