Airag

What it is

Airag is fermented mare's milk, the summer drink of the Mongolian countryside. It is slightly sour, a little fizzy and only mildly alcoholic: published measurements usually put it at about 1 to 3 percent alcohol, depending on how long it has fermented. Lactic acid bacteria give it its sourness, while yeasts produce the gentle sparkle and the small amount of alcohol. Mongolians regard it as nourishing and cleansing, and it is widely believed to be rich in vitamins and beneficial bacteria. In some areas it is also called tsegee.

In 2019 UNESCO added the "traditional technique of making airag in khökhüür and its associated customs" to its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

How it is made

Mare milking runs through summer and into early autumn, and mares are milked many times a day while their foals are kept nearby. The fresh milk is cooled and poured into a khökhüür, a vessel traditionally made of cowhide, which holds a starter of airag from the previous batch. It is then churned with a wooden paddle called a buluur. UNESCO's description notes that the milk is churned more than 500 times; many herders work it far longer, adding fresh milk through the day. Today a wooden vat or plastic barrel often replaces the leather sack, but the repeated churning and the care of the starter culture remain at the heart of the process.

When and where to try it

Airag season is roughly June to September, and it is closely linked with Naadam in July. Provinces with rich pasture, especially Bulgan, Arkhangai and Övörkhangai, are known for good airag, and along the roads in these areas you may see families selling it in bottles. Staying with a herding family in summer is the best way to taste it fresh. Some families freeze summer airag to serve at Tsagaan Sar in winter.

Etiquette and tips

• Airag is usually offered in a shared bowl. Take it with your right hand or both hands, drink a little and hand it back. You do not need to finish it.
• People often flick a few drops into the air as an offering to the sky and spirits, and it is sprinkled for blessings at celebrations.
• It is raw and still fermenting. If you are new to it, start with a few sips rather than a full bowl.
• Because it is alcoholic, decline if you do not drink; touching the bowl to your lips and returning it is understood.
• Be cautious buying from roadside stalls in very hot weather, when airag sours quickly.