Entering a ger

Origins

A ger is a home, a workplace and, for many families, a place of worship, all inside a single round room. Over centuries that compact space has been organised by shared rules that let everyone know where to sit, where things are kept and how to move without disturbing others. The door traditionally faces south, towards the sun and away from the prevailing north-westerly winds. The area at the back, opposite the door, is the khoimor, where the household altar stands and where honoured guests and elders sit. The western side, on your left as you enter, is traditionally the men's side, where saddles and tools are kept; the eastern side, on your right, is the women's side, with the kitchen and food. Movement inside follows the sun, clockwise.

How it works today

Many of these customs are still practised, both in herders' homes and in tourist ger camps, though how strictly varies from family to family. When you approach a family ger in the countryside, it is customary to call out "Nokhoi khor!" ("hold the dog") from a distance, so the household can secure their guard dog. Coming and going freely is not considered rude.

At the door, step over the threshold rather than on it; standing or sitting on the threshold is considered disrespectful. Once inside, move to the left and continue clockwise to the seat you are offered. Your hosts will usually guide a guest towards the back or the western side.

Hospitality follows quickly: milk tea, a bowl of dairy foods such as aaruul, and often bread or boortsog. Receive everything with your right hand, or with both hands for a heavy bowl, or with the right hand supported at the elbow by the left. Taste at least a little of what is offered; touching a cup to your lips is enough if you do not want to drink.

What visitors should know

• Do not lean on the two central pillars or walk between them, and do not lean on the lattice walls.
• The hearth is respected. Never throw rubbish, cigarette ends or waste water into the stove fire.
• Do not sit with your back or the soles of your feet pointing towards the altar.
• If your foot touches someone else's by accident, shake or touch their hand straight away; this is a common gesture to undo the slight.
• Keep sleeves rolled down when you shake hands or accept food.
• Never put your hat on the floor or on a seat, and do not touch another person's hat.
• Whistling inside a ger is avoided.
• Ask before taking photographs of people, the altar or the inside of a family home.

Hosts know that visitors will make mistakes, and a willing attempt at these customs is usually welcomed warmly.